週次 |
日期 |
單元主題 |
第1週 |
|
Introduction |
第2週 |
|
The Hydrodynamic Equations:
Conservation of mass, Equation of motion in ocean |
第3週 |
|
The Hydrodynamic equations: Equation of motion in ocean |
第4週 |
|
Hydrodynamic equations: Equation of motion in ocean, scaling of motion |
第5週 |
|
II. Hydrodynamic equation: Perturbation method
III. Small amplitude wave theory |
第6週 |
|
III. Theory of waves: small amplitude wave theory - Problem formulation and boundary conditions |
第7週 |
|
溫書假 |
第8週 |
|
III. Theory of waves: small amplitude gravity wave solution and Gravity-Capillary wave solution. |
第9週 |
|
III. theory of waves: Dispersion relation, standing wave and waves on a uniform current. |
第10週 |
|
IV. Engineering properties of gravity waves:
standing wave and waves on a uniform current. |
第11週 |
|
IV. Engineering properties of GW: particle velocity and trajectory, pressure and pure standing waves |
第12週 |
|
Midterm examination |
第13週 |
|
IV. Engineering properties of GW: partial standing waves and energy transfer |
第14週 |
|
IV. Engineering properties of GW: Transformations of waves entering shallow water |
第15週 |
|
V shallow water waves |
第16週 |
|
V. Shallow water waves |
第17週 |
|
VI. Statistics of ocean waves |
第18週 |
|
Final Examination |